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Climbing

CapoCaccia is fortunate to be right next to one of the major climbing venues in Sardinia. There are actually 2 areas: 'Placche di Peyer', within walking distance of the hotel and featuring short, sharp vertical lines on compact limestone in a peaceful environment, and 'Casarotto', an easy drive or taxi ride from the hotel, with longer (some multipitch!) lines on wild overhanging limestone with huge juggy holds in a spectacular seaside location. Climbs from 5a up to 8a. I personally can do up to 7b and am up for trying 7c or even 8a if someone wants to have a go, but am perfectly happy with the easier 5's and 6's. Please bring harness, shoes, ropes (always in high demand), belay devices, and a selection of quickdraws. I will bring a permutation of the above as always so we will at least have enough rope, 'draws, and belay devices to do one group per outing.

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Timetable

Day Time Location
Tue, 03.05.2016 15:30 - 19:00 Casarotto
Wed, 04.05.2016 15:30 - 19:00 Placche di Peyer
Thu, 05.05.2016 14:30 - 18:00 TBD
Fri, 06.05.2016 15:30 - 18:30 Placche di Peyer (Meet in lobby)

There are 2 main climbing areas near the hotel. Both feature sport climbing on bolts; with one (for the adventurous) also offering some trad routes. Here is an overview of the areas:

'Placche di Peyer': The closer area. To get there, follow the road out of the hotel until you reach the main road. Turn left and continue going until you pass the Nuraghe (ancient ruins) on the right. Just beyond this is a turnoff onto a dirt track. There is a line of trees on the track's right-hand side. The turnoff is signed but not conspicuously. Follow this track and when it starts to climb the hillside turn left onto a rather better gravel road, which passes 2 old WWII-era bunkers. Beyond the second bunker, as the road enters a grove of trees and just before a slight ravine, you will see a rough path leading up to your right marked with white and red painted squares. This track winds up to the left-hand-side of the climbing area proper. Go over the top until you find a steep but safe descent groove with a fixed rope - it's at about the highest point of the cliff. The descent looks intimidating but is actually far simpler then it seems, there are big hand and footholds and you just have to move down these. There is a small enclosure here where you can drop your stuff and gear up. Routes are to the left and right of this point. Some of them may require a little bushwhacking but nothing extreme; if you find yourself in jungle-like surrounds you've gone too far.  Routes from 5b up to 7b, all well equipped. These are short, mostly vertical, on compact limestone with interesting grooves.

'Casarotto' Only a little further away, at Capo Caccia itself, this is arguably the premier climbing area of northern Sardinia. In fact, the main background picture for the CapoCaccia website is taken from here! To get there, drive or take a taxi towards Capo Caccia. At the last turnoff, just after the turnoff for Cala Dragunara, turn right up to the 'Belvedere'. The climbing area is well signposted at the road but not at the point where you have to access the descent. The main road makes a sharp turn here. There is a large car park where you can park and also arrange for taxi collection. Walk back down the road to the major hairpin. At this point walk up the slope on a rocky, vaguely defined path to an obvious notch. Again this looks intimidating but it is again easy, big juggy holds all the way down. Climbing here is in a series of large walls, mostly overhanging. The main cave has an obvious spot to gear up. If you continue 'round  the corner there are several more inlets where there are more routes - this is a fairly massive area if you want to explore. Mostly good bolts but beware of old very rusty ones. Routes here tend to be very steep, radical overhangs in a sensational situation with huge jug-holds. Routes from 5b to 8c(!). To the left of the descent route there are several more large cliffs which feature trad climbing if anyone's up for it.

I will be bringing my sport gear but NOT the trad rack. So I will have a (single) rope, lots of quickdraws, harness, belay device, and a selection of slings. We'll try to arrange for lifts to the venues, harness-sharing if people have come without harnesses (no shoe sharing though please!) and other details. I have a guidebook to the area which I will bring. Since I'm not arriving until the evening of the free Sunday you may want to arrange some visits yourselves as well before I get there. When I do arrive, we will try to climb on any day where the weather permits! Usually I leave around 3:30 in the afternoon and aim to be back at the hotel by 7:30.

Leader

Alexander Rast

Members

Richard George
Arren Glover
Germain Haessig
Laura Kriener
Christian Mayr
Gabriela Michel
Moritz Milde
Manu Nair
Felix Neumärker
Alexander Rast
Marion betizeau